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Author Topic: Map Tutorial Database  (Read 15560 times)
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Unkn0wn Offline
No longer retired
Posts: 18374

« on: January 03, 2009, 03:49:05 pm »

Basic Tutorials
Tutorial One - Setting Up - BROKEN LINK
Tutorial 2 - My First Multiplayer Map - BROKEN LINK
Creating damaged buildings- BROKEN LINK
How to view Relic maps
How to Draw or Paint Sectors

Advanced Tutorials
How to build a trench, by Nobody- BROKEN LINK
Eye candy guide
Guide to making rural maps
Adding generic music to maps
Guide to adding weather

Additional Help
For when the tutorials don't answer all your questions. Also feel free to post questions in this forum!
« Last Edit: December 31, 2012, 12:46:14 pm by tank130 » Logged
Unkn0wn Offline
No longer retired
Posts: 18374

« Reply #1 on: January 03, 2009, 03:51:51 pm »

Using snow on your maps:
Here is the link for the snow atmosphere:


just put the .APS file in:

C:\Program Files\THQ\Company of Heroes\WW2\Data\Art\Scenarios\Presets\Atmosphere

(may have to create folders), in the map editor under "Atmosphere Properties" click "load" and select the "HURTGEN SNOW.APS" this will load the atmoshpere settings to change sand to snow.

for the snow texture any (originaly) brown/light brown texture should look white. for Hurtgen Snow I used "Sand\SAND_BASE" and "Sand\SAND_ROUGH_01" second one is the best, first is just a good base for the snow.

to turn off the falling snow in the "Atmosphere Properties" under "Weather" turn "Speed" to zero.
« Last Edit: December 31, 2012, 12:25:21 pm by tank130 » Logged
Unkn0wn Offline
No longer retired
Posts: 18374

« Reply #2 on: January 03, 2009, 03:58:08 pm »

Quick Impass Editing Tutorial by Lolto:

Like any map you want water in, you start off by making a depression or two in the land with the Heightmap Editor...

Then of course using the water placement tool to add the water, keep in mind any new water entity added to the map will cover your entire map in water.  To change this, you select the water entity while in the water placement editor and by holding down 'H' then clicking and dragging the entity up or down until you get it right...

Now that you have your water placed, how do you know if its passable water (shallow)? or impassable water (deep or not impassable mapped)?  Well to start figuring this out, go to Overlay >> Draw Overlay Map >> Draw Impass Map.

You can now see gray squares which indicate Passable Terrain With that done there is still a problem, you cannot see the impass map below the water, it's a easy fix, to do this, go to View >> Water.  Don't forget you have water placed there, you just can't see it now, but this enables you to view and edit the impass map below the water now since you can view it.

With that done, as you can see my water is all shallow enough that units can pass through it.  There are two ways to make an area impassable:  One way is by editing the height-map in your water area by making it steeper, in turn this shows up as red squares as opposed to gray squares, an indication of impassable
(red) area.   By doing the height-map editing technique, your impassable terrain won't show up immediately.  To show which is impassable, after each height-map edit, you go to Overlay >> Regenerate Impass Only.  Now, as you can see, the area that is impassable (red) will show up.  If you wish to make an area passable (gray) again, you have to use the height-map tool to simply smooth out the terrain and then, when the terrain is flat enough, regenerate the impass once again.

Now the other way to do it, with which I have not used myself yet but I hear works, is by simply editing the impass in the
Impass Map Editor (The traffic signal at the top of the editor).  You can see from the screen-shot, that this method is pretty much self-explanatory, it doesn't take much to know how to do this.  Keep in mind you won't be able to see what you edit until you go to Overlay >> Draw Overlay Map >> Draw Impass Map.

After you have edited this accordingly, units in-game should not be able to pass through a red or orange area you designate in the map.

Hope this helps some of you.  Smiley
« Last Edit: January 03, 2009, 04:00:54 pm by Unkn0wn » Logged
Unkn0wn Offline
No longer retired
Posts: 18374

« Reply #3 on: January 03, 2009, 04:03:53 pm »

Atmosphere Setting Tutorial by DerangedFerret:

Here is a tutorial for all you people wanting to screw with light settings. Figuring all of this out took hours, and I want to make the process easier for you. So here you are! (And apologies to the admins for the amount of pictures).


This tutorial will help you choose the light settings that are right for your map. Atmosphere settings can make or break a map. Bad atmosphere say, with too much bloom, will blind players, while others, with bad settings, can make your map look dead and uninteresting. However, if executed properly, good atmospheric settings can make a map look 10x better. To get the lighting you want, it may take a little bit of messing around with the settings. It's a time-consuming process if you want to make it fit your level.

Note: From here on out, I will assume you have made a map to use. I'll use 6p_Dawn, a map I created, as an example from here on out as well. It will be used in all pictures.

In the Beginning...

Boring, no? It lack warmth. Notice how bland this looks! It's completely uninviting, and boring beyond belief. The level looks dead.

As you can see, this needs work. Heavy work. By the end of this tutorial, you will appreciate the difference. Believe me.

Note: Light settings are especially important for people who use high graphic settings, as bad atmospheres will be more noticeable, but, conversely, good ones will be, too.

Your first steps...

Open up worldbuilder, and then your map.

Then, go up to the scenario tab at the top row, to the right of edit.

From there, select Atmospheric Properties from the pull down menu.

The atmospheric properties screen is shown in the picture. Good! You have opened the area in which you will change the atmosphere of your map! I will explain how to do so in the next chapter.

The Atmospheric Properties Window

This window controls everything about you're map's settings, from the color of the sun, to the skybox, and even to the type of transitions you wish to incorporate in your map.

It is also important to note that unchecking a box will result in it's disablement. It is strongly encouraged that you leave all boxes checked in.

I will now include a list of all of it's functions and their uses:

This Box lets you save atmospheric settings, or, if you must, load some up that you downloaded. By default, it saves to Program Files/CompanyofHeroes/WW2/Data/Art/Scenarios/Presets/Atmosphere.

If you happen to get any settings from an external source, like, say you request some from me, for example, and I send them to you through the internet, you will want to put the .aps files in the same directory I showed above.

This is perhaps the most important box in the entire window. It lets you control the color of the sun, it's intensity, the direction it is projecting from, the color of shadow it casts, and the intensity of said shadows.

The color of sun is very important. A white sun means that the map will appear colder, while a yellower sun will result in a warmer-looking map.

In addition to affected the temperature-look of the map, the color of the sun will also effect the color of any textures in the level. White sun generally makes grass look frozen, and it enables map makers to cheat the game engine's sand into looking like snow. The best way to experience the effect it has on the map is to mess around with it a little bit, and decide what looks best for your map.

Soldier Light
This box is very important as well. It controls how the sunlight appears on players' units. However, for the most consistency between the level and the troops on it, it is generally best just to hit the "duplicate sunlight" button. It copies all of the sunlight settings over to Soldier Light settings, it's easier than entering the settings manually.


This changes the skybox present in your map. It also lets you rotate it to whatever you may so desire.

For best results, I would suggest that you click the "lock to sunlight rotation" box, which, as it states, locks it to the direction the sun is coming from.

Ambient Light
Don't screw with this. It disables one of the 3 colors used to get your sunlight, and just looks bad. You'd be best leaving this box alone.

Misc Environment
I wouldn't touch this if I were you. The only good use it has is to make a map look washed out, which is useful for desert maps, but only in moderation.

I can't properly explain what they all do. It's too complicated, and they are too seldom used to warrant any tips.

All I can say about the Misc. Environment is to play with the sliders, and if you don't like it, then don't worry, it's not very important.

Fog is pretty important. It lets relic hide all of their graphical screw-ups.  Grin

Really, though, proper implementation of fog can make or break a map. Common sense is required for proper use. If you look in the direction of the sun, there will be more fog. The opposite is also true.

In addition, night or early morning has much more fog than afternoon.

This window let's you edit the "fog colour/alpha gradient." Don't worry about it. The default fog looks like real fog, and you should really only change the color if you're looking for a smoke-effect or something.

Fog Start/End is measured in Meters, and is best observed looking at it, when the changes are more obvious.

If you do want to change the fog color, though, it is important to note several thing:

1) The top horizontal bar controls the color of the fog.
2) The bottom horizontal bar controls the thickness of fog.
3) When you click on a slider, the left vertical bar and color selection changes the top horizontal bar.
4) When you click on a slider, the right vertical Alpha Channel bar controls the bottom horizontal bar.

As for the rest of the features of the fog box:

Base Fog Height seems to do nothing.

Ground Fog Factor determines the way your fog blends with the ground.

Sky Blend Height determines the way your fog blends with the skybox.

Finally, my favorite box! Put simply, this box controls the amount of bloom present in your map.

Note: It is VERY important to use moderation with these settings. It seems to effect people with higher gamma settings rather strongly, and overuse might result in complaints of "ow, I'm blind!" or the ever-sarcastic, "MOAR BLOOM PLZ!"

A lower blur threshold means that there seems to be a blur between lighter colors and the air, resulting in a washed-out, warm look.

FinalPass exposure is very important as well. It controls the intensity of colors. Higher FinalPass controls intensity of brighter colors, while lower FinalPass controls intensity of dark colors. These both have extreme effect on brightness of the level. Be careful not to overdo it.

As a final note, it is interesting to notice that if you make lower FinalPass a greater value than higher FinalPass, the map get's inverted lighting. Yes, that inverted, you know, with only blue, black and white? Try it, it's quite funny to imagine a battle going on like this!

From what I can tell, this modifies the shade of the effects, like fire and smoke, to certain levels. It's really not that noticeable, and left best to it's default value.

If you plan on having rain, snow, or even  Wink falling ash, in your level, this is the most important settings, more so than sunlight. People will immediately notice crappy weather effects. Example: Hurtgen Snow. The size of the snow flakes annoy most people. However, this was the first EIR map to incorporate the snow, and it has an excuse. You have none. I will explain how to do both snow AND rain here.


First, you MUST select a texture from the pull-down menu for the rain, or else you will get falling yellow tiles of wetness. Start with Rain_02. You can change later when the rain begins to fall.

Speed determines the rate at which the rain will fall. Slower Rate is good for snow, while faster rate is better rain. Faster rate = pouring rain.

Wind Strength determines the angle your rain is falling at. The direction is determined by the wind's direction in your map.

Density is, obviously, the density of rain fall.

Width and Length are self-explanatory. It is good to notice, however, that snowflakes, being more rounded, will be wider than rain will be.

Tile U and V messes with the rain texture. Leave these at 1.000...

Next, go all the way to the bottom of the Weather box. You will see a pull-down menu that states, "Weather Type." Go for the volume of rain. Light, Medium, or Heavy. Without one of the rain types enabled, the rain will not generate splashes.

Note: The Dry/Wet button below Weather Type seems to have no effect. Leave it be.

Next is Splash Density. This will control how great the density of splash effects are on the map. Set it high for Heavy Rain, and lower for Light Rain.

Splash Age determines how long the Splash effects appear on screen. You must find a balance yourself.

Lightning is good for storms. Really. They define storms.

Lightning Probability controls how often lightning will strike. 1 is the maximum.

Flash Count determines how many lightning flashes there will be for each lightning event. The amount is best kept fairly low to avoid ridiculous-looking machine gun-like lightning.

Duration is how long the lightning event will last.

Last Flash Fade-Out is interesting. What is does, is enable an effect, like human eyes adjusting after a lightning strike. The last flash should take longer than the preceding flashes, but not to a ridiculous amount, either.

Intensity controls the intensity of the lightning blast. Higher intensity means more color. Maxing out the randomization is always good, because it adds a random element to the lightning and keeps it from looking too similar from the last.

Lightning Color is self-explanatory. It controls color of the lightning.

Distance and Height controls where the lightning is coming from. Unless you want some seriously messed up lightning, I'd leave it alone.

The same thing goes for angle deviation.

Oooh! The exciting part of atmospheric properties, and, for many of you, the reason you're here! Transitions add a nice, real effect to maps and, though not necessary, can make your map look much more real.

This is very important, and somewhat confusing. You MUST generate the atmospheric settings you want to transition to, and save them. Yes, save them as presets on the top box. It doesn't matter what you call them, so long as you save them.

Have all of your final settings done? Good. Are all of the boxes in "settings to apply" checked? Good. It's time to start.

First, load your preset you wanted the map to begin on. It should say, under "Transition", 0, and under "Atmosphere," <current settings>.

Good. Click on "Add," and then add the next setting you want to transition to onto the chart.

The default "Transition" time should be 60, and the "hold" 120. Let me explain how this works. The "Transition" is how long the game will take to blend one atmosphere setting into another. The more radical the change, the longer this should take. "Hold" means that when the setting is reached, it is kept there for the number of seconds written in. Default is 120.

Try hitting "Preview" in the bottom right corner. You should see the atmosphere changing now. If you want to move it faster, click on the multiplier on the left.

Adjust the "Transition" and "Hold" timers, and, voila! Your transition is finished!

You can have more than 2 transitions if you want. All you have to do is go through the "add" process again and re-adjust the timers explained above. As far as I can tell, there is no limit to the amount of transitions you can incorporate.

Once you are satisfied with the Transitions, save the new atmosphere settings as, "(MAP)_full.aps"

The last step is rather simple. Press OK to exit the Atmospheric Properties Window. Then, click on file at the top-left and the click "Export Light Settings" Near the bottom. It will give you a .lte file in case you lose your .aps files.

Note: The Preview multiplier only affects the preview's speed, not the actual setting speed.

I really hope that this has been of use to you in your map making endeavors. Good Luck.
Tymathee Offline
Posts: 9741

« Reply #4 on: January 03, 2009, 04:43:26 pm »


"I want proof!"
"I have proof!"
"Whatever, I'm still right"

Dafuq man, don't ask for proof if you'll refuse it if it's not in your favor, logic fallacy for the bloody win.
stickymaps Offline
EIR Regular
Posts: 18

« Reply #5 on: March 20, 2009, 08:40:31 pm »

sry but the making trenches doesnt work
Caarnus Offline
EIR Veteran
Posts: 92

« Reply #6 on: September 04, 2009, 03:27:22 pm »

Hey do you know if these links still work? I can't seem to get them to work from here at work. (Haven't tried from home yet)

Evil incarnate, devourer of sensitive n00bs, scourge of battlefield, crusader of sanity

LeoPhone Offline
Honoured Member
Posts: 0

« Reply #7 on: September 23, 2009, 12:17:27 pm »

click the wiki.relicrank.com one, all the other links are there too.

also, i see you explained weather really detailed unkown, but did you also say you can just load basic weather options from other maps?
only thing you have to watch out for then is the Transitions
« Last Edit: September 23, 2009, 12:24:40 pm by LeoPhone » Logged
Nobody Offline
EIR Regular
Posts: 19

« Reply #8 on: February 25, 2010, 11:05:47 am »

Working links to my tutorials can be found here

Grundwaffe Offline
EIR Veteran
Posts: 1128

« Reply #9 on: July 23, 2010, 04:36:06 am »

Please fix "Snow" link plz.

SublimeHauken - Back from the dead - Since 2007'
Unkn0wn Offline
No longer retired
Posts: 18374

« Reply #10 on: July 23, 2010, 06:29:18 am »

Just take it from Abbeville winter or any other snow map Smiley
(Use corsix to extract and take the atmosphere setting, load it into your own map)
LeoPhone Offline
Honoured Member
Posts: 0

« Reply #11 on: March 29, 2011, 03:20:48 pm »

perhaps add this to the tutorial list?


It is a complete manual for the worldbuilder  Shocked

also, here is a complete object catalogue. pretty epic.

« Last Edit: March 29, 2011, 03:23:45 pm by LeoPhone » Logged
PurpleSpark Offline
EIR Regular
Posts: 3

« Reply #12 on: October 31, 2011, 05:00:32 pm »

2 questions, how do you get the game so you dont have Hq's cause dont you need them to save, and same thing ewith special territory
LeoPhone Offline
Honoured Member
Posts: 0

« Reply #13 on: October 31, 2011, 05:27:29 pm »

just make the map like a vcoh map. EIR removes the HQs and capture points automatically.
PurpleSpark Offline
EIR Regular
Posts: 3

« Reply #14 on: November 01, 2011, 02:19:07 pm »

ok thanks
PurpleSpark Offline
EIR Regular
Posts: 3

« Reply #15 on: November 06, 2011, 03:38:50 pm »

one more question, why is there a no pass in front of my buildings doors
Scotzmen Offline
EIR Veteran
Posts: 2035

« Reply #16 on: November 06, 2011, 03:44:29 pm »

It shouldnt matter, open up any other map and there the same, it will still work as intended.
GRhellinas Offline
EIR Regular
Posts: 1

« Reply #17 on: January 02, 2012, 05:59:19 pm »

Hi there. Just new and trying to get in the whole scene. Have fun. Smiley
aeroblade56 Offline
Posts: 3870

« Reply #18 on: May 08, 2012, 02:12:48 pm »

tutorial links dont work.

You are welcome to your opinion.

You are also welcome to be wrong.
Demon767 Offline
Warmap Betatester
EIR Veteran
Posts: 6190

« Reply #19 on: July 06, 2012, 09:35:29 am »

the links dont work

Generalleutnant of The Reichs Wolves

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